When we decided to open a book store, we naturally investigated all sorts of options for shelving our books. We found some very expensive custom-made setups, and looked at some very cheap setups in book stores that we visited. I tried to take the good ideas, and incorporated these into our own custom-designed book cases. I know that they seem to be somewhat "over designed", but except for a few minor dimension changes, I would do exactly the same thing again, should we open another store. It is possible to save 20 percent or so on lumber by skimping here or there. I wouldn't skimp, but I know budgets are very tight at start-up time. Feel free to copy and change any element you wish.
The only difficult part of building these shelves is that you should use dado construction. Cutting the dadoes if best accomplished using a "stacked dado blade" on a radial arm saw.
Yes, you can do the dadoes with a table saw or a router. To me, both methods have drawbacks. With the table saw method, you are doing cross-cut operations, blind. Easy if you build a jig, and you are a guru with the saw. The router method is sloooooow. I can process an entire side in the time it takes me to do a single cut with a router (not to mention the intolerable noise that you create). However you want to do it, be my guest. I do, however recommend highly that you do cut dadoes.
Make the cut as you draw the saw towards you. You must be sure that you have tight joints. Check every batch of wood for thickness, to be sure that the dadoes will not be too wide (if the joints are too wide, you have defeated the purpose of using this method of construction.
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Be very careful with the dado saw blade. For splinter-free results, you should always use the "pulling" motion when doing cross cut operations. When using a dado blade, the saw has the tendency to try to "walk over" the wood (backwards), rather than cutting (through) the joint. Walking over seems like the route of least resistance at first, but the blade eventually binds, and you trip the breaker. It is very exciting the first few time you do this. You must anticipate this by placing some forward pressure on the saw, and being sure that the saw has sufficient time to cut through the grain of the wood.. Using grainy, soft wood amplifies this tendency. |
Except for bookcases which will contain only mass markets, construction material is 1 X 6 1" #2 Pine stock. 1 x 4s may be substituted when used for only mass market paperbacks.
The 3/8 " deep dado joints are very
important, they provide an enormous amount structural strength, so long as the joints are tight-fitting. Use the self-feeding
screwdriver and screws pictured, screwing them through the sides of the
bookcases into the end grain of the shelves.
The end
grain of the shelf will split slightly, compressing the shelf into the
side dadoes.
Pocket Hole Screws are a very special item. Look for the ones made by Kreg (not surprisingly, the maker of the jig). They have a much larger head. This is the only part of the screw that holds the shelves to the plywood backing. Because of the large head, greater torque may be applied when driving them.
An important design element addresses the stability of the book cases. I have seen many stores that have book cases that are so flimsy that one is afraid to walk through the "canyons" between the books for fear that they will fall in on you. You should be concerned with the fact that children will climb these book cases. Their parents are too busy shopping (a good thing) to worry about the kids. You will be really unhappy if one of your "home made" book cases falls and injures a kid.
These book cases NEVER Stand alone. They should always be either screwed to a wall (using 90 degree brackets), or be combined in an H, T or U configuration. In that I mean these should be sets of shelves that join in various configurations meeting at 90 degree angles. You can study some of the photos for ideas. So long as you learn how to use the "pocket Hole" screws, very ingenious 90 degree unions are possible.
Several shelf dimensions are used, depending upon proposed utilization. In our bookstore, most of the racks used in the interior of the store display both hardbacks and mass-market paperbacks they are:
72" in total height.
2'11 7/8" in width
we made each
book case this width so that 4 of them would equal 12 feet, spanning 3
full sheets of plywood backs
without any one ending on a seam. When
filling spaces not divisible
Two shelf are placed back to back using a single sheet of 3/8" plywood as the back of both.
When placing book cases side-by-side, a set of four will span the following widths.:
3'
6'
9'
12'
as you can see, four bookcases, side-by-side form an integrated unit, providing enormous strength in all directions.
When attaching
the backs, one set of shelves are screwed though the plywood , the facing
bookcase is attached by using pocket hole
screws, through the bottom of the shelves, into the plywood..
When careful measurement is used, your technique should allow you the place the pocket hole screw into the pocket hole, through the plywood backing, and into the back of a facing bookcase's shelf. It takes some practice. You need a long driver bit, and keep the drill as close to parallel to the shelf as possible. Keep in mind that the front or back whelf could be warped.
the shelves are 10 3/4 " from bottom of one shelf to bottom of next. We use 8 1/4" if ONLY mass market paperbacks are to be displayed.
the 3/4 of an inch worth of wood comprising the shelf is included.
The height of the first shelf will determine how high the top shelf is. We left the top of the book case open so that larger books can be displayed.
Please examine the photo gallery carefully.
Assemble Hints:
If you assemble as described, you will not require any glue, therefore they can be completely disassembled if you ever need to move them.
Think about the lengths of wood you need to order. Try to leave very little scraps.
When your wood is delivered, check the dimensions carefully. The width of the wood must be consistent. It not, rip them all to the narrowest width. This is critical so that the sleeves fit properly back-to-front in the side dadoes. You will be sorry if you do not take the time to check.
The thickness is also critical. The dadoes must fit snugly.
We used a radial arm saw with a dado blade. NOTE: Pull backwards though the board. Keep forward pressure on the saw, it will want to run backward by itself.
To assemble, grab a side, turn with dadoes down. Screw in tp and bottom shelf first, the fill in. Flip oven with that shelf on the ground. Fit other side to shelves, then screw. Three screws per shelf are required, so that the assembly does not come apart during the spraying and assembly process.
Be sure the bookcases are square before you assemble them to the backs. Remember to place some wight on the bookcases while assembling them.
Assemble as follows:
Side a bookcase 1 to back
Side a bookcase 2 side to bookcase a 1 sides
Bookcase Side a bookcase 2 to back...........
After 4 skeletons assembled to backs, use same procedure to assemble side B.
When free-standing, against a wall, plywood backs are not required/recommended. Just be sure they are square.
Check to photos to see how inside corners are erected. assemble only one side of the adjacent shelf, and use pocket holes to attach to adjacent shelves.
For outside corners,
comprised of ONLY bookcases (our designed used only one, surprisingly),
set the screw heads deep in the exposed side, fill with putty and paint
(either orange or a contrasting color.
We generally used slat wall to cover inside corner when assembling the "U's".
The slat wall end-caps add a huge amount of stability to the units and are necessary components.
Assemble the sides and shelves, then paint.
Buy wood primer
(a critical step) that
is a few shades lighter than the main paint.
If you do not use a primer any sap in the wood will bleed through.
Use a commercial pump sprayer. The best paint from a paint speciality store, and mix in the recommended amount of spraying agent.
two coats of primer on the backs
one coat primer, one coat of final paint on the bookcase skeletons.
If you spray outside, be careful, the over spray will surely land on your BMW.
A word about color..... don't laugh at the orange color. The orange, reflecting back on the books makes even ratty used books look 100% better. This is one of the few ideas suggested by the Book Rack Franchising company that really seems to make a difference.
Take your time when assembling the book cases to the backs. Measure, level, and shim as necessary.
